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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.